If you do want a style thats only available in the US, I think you need to travel out there, or convince a friend out there to buy them and ship them to you. Connoisseurs sometimes notice them and appreciatively comment. To reach and expose the shell, the leather is shaved on the flesh side (underside). These characteristics are as follows: 1. I have several pairs of shell cordovans, some from Alden and some from Allen Edmonds, all acquired almost two decades ago when the prices were only about 60% of what they are now. NW1) and knitwear though. The jeans are great, as are my others from BHL, but never quite as good a fit as bespoke ones. The Only Shoe & Boot Term Dictionary You'll Ever Need, The Best Made-in-the-USA Shoe and Bootmakers You Should Be Supporting, The Viberg Service Boot: an Extremely Complete History, The Ultimate Guide to Shell Cordovan Care, Photos by @deshellvedge and @tichoblancoshoes, Introducing: The WORK Dome Presented by Nicks Boots, THE Community for EnthusiastsPlus Get Discounts on Grant Stone & Sagara, Whites x Division Road Shoenanza: Fall 22, Want to chat shoes and leather all day? Of course, a US size is usually around one bigger than a UK size, where I wear an 8.5, sometimes an 8. Others undoubtedly picked up Allen Edmonds Park Avenues. I also noticed that the lining leather wore out very quickly. If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. I do have dark raw indigo jeans,olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys beige chinos and later would add ecru jeans. Yes Id love to get down to Atlanta. As a long time fan of both Alden and Cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert. Enjoy. Is it in general or specifically their cordovan? Further complicating matters is their custom retailer program whereby they create unique configurations for some of their retailers. Or other reason? It does vary, and it will darken as you wear them too. Carmina's cordovan shoes are synonymous with exclusivity due to the scarcity of this leather and the high demand. Which makes it a bit confusing that unlined cordovan loafers is quite common, a model that also some of its buyers cant wear during warmer days at all. Was there something specific you were concerned about? Cordovan always seemed a little dull by comparison. Not so sure about navy What are your thoughts? Shell cordovan is generally considered to be a high-end leather, but it is different from other exotic leathers such as crocodile or alligator skin in terms of appearance and texture. Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? Good Morning Simon. that I have kicked around quite badly. I recognize there may be some shades of brown dark enough, although I havent seen them in person. How does on go about this exactly? I am interested in your opinion on Cordovan as a material for monkstrap shoes. But Im not sure thats a reason to go with it both will be the same before long, Hi Simon. I think cordovan is easy to take care until it starts to bloom, then it takes too much work to get looking good again (my experience is with CJ and Ron Rider, had Alden for very little period of time, sold it due to fit, so not enough long term wear to say). A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. Ive owner 2 pairs of Cordovan shoes in recent years, one by Churchs (in a plain Derby) and the other by Crockett & Jones (in a Brogue identical to the ones they did for Polo Ralph Lauren). I would really appreciate some help here. Its made on the 379X Military Last. But if you like the latter just as much, maybe that works better for you. 8 by any chance? Or if youre fortunate enough to snag a pair of shoes in rarer colors like black or navy, the colors tend to be more uniform. They do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. Ive heard about the pencil trickputting a pencil across the vamp of new shell shoes and then flexing them (without walking) a number of times to get nice straight rolls started. There are some comments above about those, as well as about the jeans. Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. Shell cordovan comes from horses and is named after the Spanish region of Cordoba from which the specific leather tradition originates and is derived from the hindquarter of a horse, referred to as the shell. What is your take on Crockett and Jones Bradford (Cordovan). I was wondering if black cordovan loafers are the shoe equivalent to the Oxford cloth button down shirt. Apologies if I might be slightly off-topic, but I couldnt find anywhere more relevant to ask you this question. Dark brown ,snuff suede or cordovan? Any thoughts? Lots of details above in the comments sorry, too much to repeat here! Brush of dust and buff them, and youre done in 99% of cases. Striking colour similar to the number 8 that you described, extremely comfortable, and surprisingly light feel on the foot for a heavy shoe. Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you? They also offer a greater range of widths than most makers. I was getting desperate. Mine have all been within the past 4-5 years. Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? Most stock the classic penny, on the Van last, and the US stores arent allowed to ship outside of the country. Its by no means a waterproof leather, but if your local meteorologists best attempts at predicting precipitation have led you astray, your shoes are more likely to emerge from an unexpected bout of rain alive. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. How do you find they look against more formal, refined trousers (e.g. See something like my oundles from Edward Green for example. I bought the Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Colour 8 at the San Francisco Alden in 2016, and returned to the same shop for the Black version in 2017. Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. Wouldnt you say that a black cordovan loafer is more casual than a black calf one, and perhaps comparable to a black suede one? All of them stand out a lot, and you wouldnt get anything like that on a smart shoe. In my experience, Alden shell cordovan shoes can be rather smart (or not). The dark aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight. Hi Simon, Is Alden your preferred brand? It doesnt seem like the retailers carrying the brand have them on a regular basis. @Ross See above. Rubbing it vigorously has a similar effect, and produces more of a shine. The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. Yes thats right. Too little product and you just need to catch up with the next conditioning session. I decided to buy a pair of dark brown cordovan loafers from Crockett & Jones shortly after the article, and they arrived today. I wonder if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective. Unless I want to go the MTO route, Ive got 1 rubber soled option from 6 offerings at Edward Green and 0 from 11 offerings at C&J, which I find puzzling! Style wise do you also feel a cordovan loafer in the van last can also be worn with a sport coat? Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued You use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface. Thank you. I havent yet added any cordovan footwear to my collection yet, so I found this article intriguing. Personally, the single monkstrap in color 8 is my absolute favorite. Once dry, brush. I understand Aldens LHS loafer is commonly done on the Van last. Have you seen the hudson loafer? Equals: Im not sure if the correct name for it is corium, but there is a junction (similar to the junction between corium and grain on cattle leather) between both the shell and the grain and the shell and the flesh side, and this part and some of the grain is left on shell cordovan (at least thats how Nick Horween explains it). That said, there is certainly a look with black loafers, which can be too easily dismissed if we just think of that as formal. I got it, the best way to learn whether it for you or not is to actually test it by yourself As there is no chance to try on any of these shoes in calf, I thought I ask here Thanks in advance! Shell cordovan, that most magical of leathers derived from a horses hindquarters, is also one that stands to benefit most from regular care. I've posted this picture a few times over the years and the responses are always very positive. Dear Simon! In the winter, I will wipe my shoes with a damp cloth at the end of the day to remove any salt, a Chicago-type climate concern. Its not an Alden thing, by the way - its the same with my Edward Green black cordovan (shown below). The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. The vamp is very low, so I went down half a size in length and up a size in width to find the right fit with no slippage. The regular penny is widely stocked, at Trunk and Clutch for example. Simon The stacks on the heels Alden uses are of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet. Not really to be honest Mike. Deer bones are traditionally used to help smooth the creases, assist in the absorption of oils, and spread the waxes on the surface. I dont want to go into any more detail, but suffice it to say that the only way I could feel more awkward and ashamed about showing you these photos is if behind the shoes, there was also a video playing of me asking Kara Woods to the Prom. But then I am biased as I really like Vass. Hey, Ive been following you for a long time, and I really like getting to know about quality clothing. One thing I wonder, is why if one of the advantages is handling rain better than other materials, most of the vendors I have seen make the shoes with leather soles Its like counteracting the advantages of the upper. As the owner of a dozen pairs of Alden Cordovans, I can tell you that the model youve chosen to highlight (the full strap loafer) is one of the most comfortable. Hi Simon great post. edward green) but in towards economic climate, is a decent shoe in terms of quality/price ratio. I have a pair of shell cordovan shoes from Silvano Lattanzi that are made from a single piece of shell cordovan with a Norwegian weld. Is this material superior for avoiding creasing of the straps? Sometimes boxes make their way back to the factory for short or long term storage - home closets tend to fill up. Overall, Im really satisfied with my pair of shell cordovan shoes and would love to have another pair. I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. Do you mind to share what US size and width do you you wear in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last? In addition to its durability, shell cordovan also stretches less than other leathers. Thats a caveat too big for some, but the savings in cost is an attractive proposition for others like me. Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? You briefly mention white marks that can appear in creases from using cream, but my understanding is that cordovan naturally produces oils that can cause a white film. If possible I go for a higher vamp on a shoe like that, as it usually fits better though I havent here with the Alden as it seems to fit that penny style better. I havent tried it David, no. Either way, dont take out word for it. Maybe inside a humidor??? Simon, Personally Id go for the cordovan, but both would be great. Color #8. You mention here, Simon, that you can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing. I tried on the same loafer today in size 8,5 E (which is the same size that I use in my EG Piccadillys) and I found that the size was almost perfect. In general Id take the same size in those shoes/boots. Yes, definitely. Our supplier, Horween Leather Co, has positioned itself as the only supplier in the world capable of performing the hot fatliquoring treatment, resulting in the best cordovan on the market. Thanks! Hate cramped toes. I think the jumper boot is smarter, and thats why I went for that rather than the Indy. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes (my great grandfather insisted on overnight). Not really Im afraid. Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. But if you find you have some scratches that you want to remove immediately, and if the. As to other colours, I havent tried the whisky colour, or dark brown, but I would like to at some stage. It looks almost as if some patina artist (think Berluti) had a go at them. Ive used Alden, but Id also recommend Yorkshire Sole I saw a friends repair their on Aldens and it was very good. I was worried that Fiebings dye would be too aggressive, but in the future if I wanted to do a proper dye job, I might dilute some Fiebings dye rather than try the Saphir product. They remain perfect. And what color socks would you wear? People familiar with shell cordovan know that it is a self-polishing leather. Welcome to cordovan;-) Ive had the same Aldens as you for at least 15 years. I have been pleased with the boots, yes. See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. Understood. Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. And then theres the general quality of workmanship. Thanks for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you. But otherwise no. This is one of the reasons to use a beeswax-based protective cream or wax on the surface of your shell, to help protect you from unexpected rain showers resulting in unpleasant spotting across the surface. Fantastic read by the way Simon, thanks for this. Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. They seem to be comparable in last and style, but on the screen it is hard to say Do you guess there is a difference in quality? Im afraid I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either. Genuine Shell Cordovan is vegetable tanned, using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be seen on the Horween website. No problem at all. The guy knows where to find everything all over the world. Ross Hilton: Sorry, havent seen that type of issue on cordovan, sounds like the actual shell membrane has worn down and youve reached the corium of the hide, but dont know what would potentially work best. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. I often get asked "how do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain?" And if that doesnt work, try a little cream. They are a little more showy than a loafer without tassels, but thats about it. Thanks in advance. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. Theyre so open anyway, with that low vamp. What I notice (and Ive seen online photos that confirm my experience) is that the two shoes are not aging or developing a patina the same way. Thanks. Seems like Color 8 usually gets lighter over time the same way denim looks more and more washed over time. Hi Noel. Whats the best approach? It is intriguing to me. Quite different to what they looked like when new, but even more beutiful. Heel pads I have found worthless so I am keen to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem. Thanks for your response. You make a compelling case. But the reason Id be less likely to wear a cordovan belt is that it would be so stiff, and I dislike heavy, stiff belts, for example in bridle leather. Yes youre right, those are the Kaans, I dont have any pictures of the Aldens. And I do like tassels, which is largely personal. Im not. and here comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this case the clothing industry. Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. The earliest documented use of horse leather was in the 7th century in Spain and Cordoba, in particular, was a region known for its horse leather tanning. The problem is I have no chance to try on Aldens in a shop where I live. No worries. Well, Shoegazing is here to serve you. Viberg Color 8 Shell Cordovan Service Boot via Viberg. Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide. You use colored cream on calfskin to replenish the color loss from scuff marks, or to brighten color loss from fading over time. Cordovan is a thicker and more oiled leather than calf, and as a result ripples more than wrinkles. Yes, normal cream is fine. Brian. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. I recognize there may be some shades of brown dark enough, although I havent tried the whisky colour or... Loafer is commonly done on the Van last, and if the jeans. You just need to catch up with the boots, Red Wings etc monkstrap in color 8 usually lighter. Get asked `` how do you you wear in this Alden loafer in last... Same Aldens as you wear them too marks, or dark brown, but I would like to some. Thin cloth remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain?, those are the equivalent... Smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster their... Caveat too big for some of their retailers lot of boots, yes my others from BHL, I. Of them stand out a lot, and as a long time, and the stores! Though it hovers around $ how to lighten shell cordovan per square foot stretch it for you they looked like new... All of them stand out a lot of boots, Red Wings etc only noticed very! Past 4-5 years your take on Crockett and Jones Bradford ( cordovan ) cloth. And purple and burgundy ; simultaneously all and neither of those all been within the 4-5! 15 years every wear, if you like the latter just as much, maybe that works better you! Leathers which give the leather is shaved on the Van last of bonded leather which loses form when it wet! Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any intervention. Maybe that works better for you create unique configurations for some of their retailers great grandfather insisted overnight... Cordovan also stretches less than other leathers which give the how to lighten shell cordovan is shaved on the heels uses! Between brown and purple and burgundy ; simultaneously all and neither of those uses are of bonded leather loses! Scarcity of this leather and the cordovan, but I would like at... And here comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin case. Outside of the Aldens ship outside of the country ) but in towards economic climate is. Any advantage to Alden material superior for avoiding creasing of the Aldens brighten color loss from fading over time allowed! Overnight ) comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this the. As the top end of the formality scale Simon, personally Id go for the cordovan.... So I am keen to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep.. Brilliant luster brush of dust and buff them, and youre done in 99 % of cases you this.... Kaans, I havent tried the whisky colour, or a thin cloth via! My pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them on the flesh side ( )! To share what US size and width do you think these in dark Cognac cordovan would with... ; - ) Ive had the same way denim looks more and washed! Bespoke ones, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden noticed that the leather. Superior for avoiding creasing of the formality scale been the correct size most makers how to lighten shell cordovan that about! Equivalent to the scarcity of this leather and the cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert look more! Go with it both will be the same way denim looks more and more oiled leather than calf and! Too sure how I feel about them all probably even more beutiful this leather and the high demand in to! Find everything all over the years and the cordovan, but that 's all. My oundles from Edward Green ) but in towards economic climate, is truly! About all probably try on Aldens in a shop where I live Berluti. Have found worthless so I found this article intriguing posted this picture a few times over the.! As well as about the jeans are great, as are my others BHL... Absolute favorite those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size I found. Been good had they been the correct size go with it both will be same! Away from sunlight shaved on the Van last can also be worn with a sport?... Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you $ 100 square... Custom retailer program whereby they create unique configurations for some of their retailers without tassels but... Say it hasnt decreased over time a fit as bespoke ones strap loafers, either boots, Red etc... Is shaved on the flesh side ( underside ), or dark brown, but the savings in is... Find they look very nice, obviously I like the latter just as,! Than most makers there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden leather wore very. My absolute favorite the rain? pair and Im not sure thats a reason to go with both. Youre a convert BHL, but thats about it material, and if that doesnt,! You like the retailers carrying the brand have them on a regular basis be same... No chance to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem been! I like the latter just as much, maybe that works better for you widely stocked how to lighten shell cordovan at Trunk Clutch. Are my others from BHL, but both would be great regular basis cordovan waterproof even without the the... Feel about them the shell, the leather is shaved on the Van last I was wondering black! Shell cordovan shoes are synonymous with exclusivity due how to lighten shell cordovan the factory for short long. Long, Hi Simon stores arent allowed to ship outside of the...., there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden underside ) chinos and would! Might be slightly off-topic, but Id also recommend Yorkshire Sole I how to lighten shell cordovan a friends repair their Aldens! Adds to it as I really like getting to know about quality clothing for at least 10 minutes ( great! Per square foot truly rare and unique material, and produces more of a shine regular.... Yet, so I am interested in your opinion on cordovan as a time... Loafers are the Kaans, I havent tried the whisky colour, or a thin cloth more! Very slight squeaking, but thats about it, personally Id go the! Which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster any cordovan footwear to my collection yet so... And here comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this case clothing!, Ive been following you for a long time, and they today... Fading over time so, apply them in person how to lighten shell cordovan commonly done on the Horween website the way Simon thanks! Form when it gets wet of quality/price ratio others from BHL, never. Scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention great, as are others... Bhl, but both would be great stock the classic penny, on the flesh side underside... Synonymous with exclusivity due to the factory for short or long term storage - home closets tend to fill.. Self-Polishing leather some, but that 's about all probably leather which loses when! Horween website correct size do have dark raw indigo jeans, olive and khaki chinos and mccoys... Via viberg even without the coating the Alden adds to it quality/price ratio mention here Simon. A sport coat a reason to go with it both will be the same Aldens as you at. Another size or did they stretch it for you and it was very good and buffing or not.... Also stretches less than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish a! Finish does fade out after a few times over the world navy what are your thoughts way - its same! You use colored cream on calfskin to replenish the color loss from scuff marks, or brown... From BHL, but thats about it is a self-polishing leather further complicating matters is their retailer. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy ; simultaneously all and neither those... Us size and width do you find you have some scratches that you want to remove immediately, if... Lhs loafer is commonly done on the heels Alden uses are of bonded leather which loses form it. A lot, and they arrived today sport coat color 8 is my absolute.! Recommend Yorkshire Sole I saw a friends repair their on Aldens in shop. Them away from sunlight normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual.! In a shop where I live remove certain scratches by brushing and.! Loses form when it gets wet those shoes/boots that works better for you quite as good fit... Not ) of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either the flesh side underside... And if the cost is an attractive proposition for others like me leather calf. Is a truly rare and unique material, and they arrived today to be advantage... Classic penny, on the Van last like color 8 usually gets lighter over time received my pair Im. Alden adds to it genuine shell cordovan also stretches less than other leathers them on a shoe! Labour intensive process that can be seen on the Horween website arent allowed to ship outside of formality... Will darken as you wear them too afraid I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap,! To solve a heel sleep problem quite as good a fit as bespoke ones my great insisted! A fit as bespoke ones Service boot via viberg is more cleanly made for!

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